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MY COUSIN MICHELLE WITH MY NEPHEW MATEO
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The reason I'm in LA this weekend was to see my cousin Michelle who's got a terminal case of ovarian cancer. She arrived at the house a few hours after I got there. There were lots of people around (Meyer and Linda: "We were at your Bar Mitzvah". Me: "That's interesting because I was at your wedding."), so I didn't have much of a chance to talk to her one-on-one or play a few games of backgammon, which would have been great, but I got to see her and that's what really counts.
I hadn't spent much time with Michelle before I went to visit her at Kibbutz Ketura in Southern Israel back in 1999. She took off for Israel shortly after graduating from college in the mid 1970s and didn't come back all that often and when she did, it was to New York or traveling around the west milking cows at one farm or another. She didn't come to LA. I would just hear stories. Michelle's joined the army. Michelle's running the drip sprinkler system at the kibbutz. Michelle is working offsite at a wildlife preservation center. Always little tidbits. Nothing really substantial. Just enough to let me know that she was still out there.
When I went to Israel in 1999, I hadn't seen Michelle in years. I didn't even really remembered what she looked like, only a vague idea from photographs. I spent tons of time with her sisters, my other cousins, Rana and Elissa, from New York and their mom, my aunt Renee, but, like I said, Michelle was never around. When I arrived at the Kibbutz, Michelle wasn't there. I was hanging out with these environmental students from South Africa while I waited for her to arrive. I was sitting in the dining hall looking at every face that came in. Finally Michelle comes in. I stand up to give her a hug and says something like, have you been eating eggs? I hate eggs and if you've been eating eggs, please don't touch me. It was a strange re-introduction, to say the least. I hadn't been eating eggs, I assured her and she acquiesced to a hug.
I spent the next three weeks hanging out at the kibbutz, talking to people, gazing at Venus and Mars, reading, lounging around and having a great time in general. Michelle would wake up early in the morning to milk the cows and then head off the Chai Bar, a wildlife preservation center that was dedicated to reintroducing native animal species to Israel. I went with her one morning to milk the cows and it is bitter, hard work. Not for me, but right up Michelle's alley.
The day I went out the Chai Bar, we cleaned the cages in the nocturnal enclosure and fed the snakes, the owls, the hedgehogs and the fruit bats. Then we took the jeep, loaded the trailer up with alfalfa and fed and counted the oryx, the addax, the asses, the vultures, and ostriches. It was a hot day. Most of the animals were passed out in the shade of the flat acacia trees. We fed the ostriches in this long, raised trough that we filled with seed. There were only a few around. It was mating season.
There was this one male ostrich who found the jeep alluring. We'd be driving along, He'd be following alongside us. Poking his sharp beak inside the cabin, which freaked me out. Then he would stop, lean down, a starting rolling from side to side in some sort of a mating ritual. He wanted to make it with the jeep, this somewhat deluded Ostrich.
Then it started raining. It doesn't rain often in the Arava. It's the low desert. But when it does, it doesn't fool around. We're in a fucking torrential downpour. The roof of the jeep is just this little canvas covering. It full of water and starting to leak. It's dark. The skies have gone gun metal gray. It's getting cold. It's getting more and more miserable by the second. For me, that is. Michelle is loving it. She's howling and whooping it up.
We head back to the Kibbutz. I just want to get inside, take a shower, get dry and have a bowl of soup. Michelle is trying to see if she can wrestle up a car so we can ride up in the hills and go flood spotting. I thought she was out of her mind and was secretly hoping that she couldn't find any kind of vehicle, but she managed to hijack a minivan so instead of go inside like normal people, we headed up to the hills to go for a hike in the pouring rain.
We followed this winding road up into the hills above the kibbutz. The road to turned to dirt, or mud really and we kept going. We passed stranded motorists and other "hikers" along the way, until Michelle decided the time was right to get out and go the rest of the way on foot. We trudged through the mud, the rain still coming down in sheets, past rivulets of water streaming along the ground in ancient riverbeds. We went on like this for about 45 minutes until we came to the most amazing sight, a waterfall in the mountains in the desert. It was amazing. There was no one around. Just Michelle and I. And there was tons of water flowing down the hills and pour over this precipice making one of the beautiful waterfalls I've ever seen. I forgot about being cold. I forgot about being wet. I forgot about being miserable and I just stood there in amazement of the beauty of nature.
Of course, I hadn't thought about this adventure for years until I started getting the email from my dad and Elissa about Michelle's condition. When I we sitting around the kitchen table, I brought it up and Michelle smiled and told the story and when she was done she said that the reason it remains so vivid is that it hasn't rained anywhere close to that since I left. I was just lucky to have been there, in the Arava, with Michelle, when they had these biblical rain storms.
Michelle, Rana and Elissa took off to go whale watching in the Sea of Cortez and probably having a great time checking out the Blue Whales and whatever other sea mammals get trapped in the Gulf of California.