August 30, 2003

Teuila is Here!

Teuila is Here!The biggest cultural event in Samoa is the Teuila Festival in September, featuring choir singing, fire-knife dancing, parades, cricket tournaments, siva (traditional dance), fautasi (longboat) racing, the Miss Samoa contest, amongst other things.

If you were to spend a week in Samoa, this would be the time to do it. It's definately the most anticipated event of the year. I've been watching for months now as more and more yachts arrive in Apia Harbor. There are something close to forty now at anchor in the harbor. It's pretty impressive looking.

I'm really interested to see how the mood of the country changes during the week. Is my office going to slow down or shut down? Are there going to be swarms of people all over town?

I'm going to try too see and photograph as much of the events as possible. My friend Jennifer is coming on Wednesday with my new camers (Nikon Coolpix 5700) and I should be able to improve the level of my photography by a large order of magnitude.

The culmination of the festival is the Miss Samoa Pageant, whose theme for 2003 is "Samoa – Islands of Natural Beauty”.I haven't decided if I'm going to go or not. Tickets are 30 tala. It's going to be shown on TV Samoa, but I don't think it's going to be live.


Time Event Location
7.00pm Church choir competition EFKS Hall - Mulinuu


Monday 1 September 2003
Time Event Location
8.00am - Samoan cricket tournament Held at various malae kilikiti (Please contact STA)
- Stalls STA Grounds
- Demonstration of weaving STA village fales
- Carving of artifacts, & handicrafts  
4.00pm All Teuila participants to assemble for the grand march   Beyond Vaisigano bridge
4.30pm Teuila march led by the Police Band


  Bush Bikes decoration competition    
5.30pm Guests seated   Front of Govt Bldg
5.45pm Invocation (Rev. Taulima Oge - Church of the Nazarene)
- Call of Welcome
- Hon Hans Joachim Keil (Minister of Tourism)
- Lowering of the national flag Police Band to play
- Entertainment - Palalaua Secondary School Front of Govt Bldg
- Introduce Miss Samoa Contestants - 2003
- Entertainment - Leulumoega Fou College
7.00pm traditional songs competition    


Tuesday 2 September 2003
Time Event Location
8.00am - Samoan cricket tournament As above (Please contact STA)
- Stalls STA Grounds
- Demonstration of weaving STA village fales
- Carving of artifacts, & handicrafts  
  - treasure on the Pole   STA Ground
6.00pm - traditional dance competition   Front of Govt Bldg
  - Mc Donalds Variety Show    


Wednesday 3 September 2003
Time Event Location
8.00am - Samoan cricket tournament As above (Please contact STA)
- Stalls STA Grounds
- Demonstration of weaving STA village fales
- Carving of artifacts, & handicrafts
  - treasure on the Pole   STA Ground
9.00am - Taulafoga (traditional games)   STA village fales
10am - 12pm - Umu demonstration (traditional cookings; visitors are welcome to taste food)   STA Ground
6.00pm - Brass band competition   Front of Govt Bldg
  - Fire dance show    
  - Mc Donald's Variety Show    


Thursday 4 September 2003
Time Event Location
8.00am - Samoan cricket tournament As above (Please contact STA)
- Stalls STA Grounds
- Demonstration of weaving STA village fales
- Carving of artifacts, & handicrafts  
10:00am - treasure on the Pole STA Ground
- Paopao, Nofoa tasi & Nofoa lua race, Tulula race Apia waterfront
4.30-5.30pm - Fautasi race   Faleula - Apia waterfront
6.00pm - Mc Donald's variety show
Front of Govt Bldg

August 29, 2003

The Biggest Cat in Samoa

The Biggest Cat in Samoa
This might come as a big surprise you to many, but I, well, have this thing for cats. See, I love them. I can't help it. I just do it.

On Wednesday this past week, I went to Coconuts Beach Resort. Ostensibly it was for the swearing in ceremony for the latest group of Peace Corps volunteers. The real reason (don't tell anybody I told you) is that I wanted to photograph this cat.

She's really incredible. She probably weighs close to 30 pounds and looks like something out of the Pliestocene. I don't know what breed she is or what her owners are feeding her (Cat Growth Hormone?). All I know is you could strap it up and it could plow your taro fields or pull your chariot. She just wouldn't be so thrilled about it.

Look at those thumpers!

Happy Birthday, Paleni! We love you, Amigo!

Happy Birthday, Paleni! We love you, Amigo!

August 28, 2003

The Last Time I'll Ever Mention Mars on This Site (Most Likely

The Last Time I'll Ever Mention Mars on This Site (Most Likely)
Ok, so I've mentioned Mars a few times, but it is one of the most incredible thngs I've ever seen, so I suppose I can be excused.

Yesterday, at at 9:51 GMT Mars and Earth were only 55,758,006 km (34,646,418 miles) apart from center to center. This is the nearest the two planets have been in almost 60,000 years.

I don't what it looks like in your part of the world, but here in Samoa, where there are so many visible stars and they seem so close that you can almost reach out and touch the Milky Way, Mars stands out like a brilliant, orange beacon in the night sky. It's incedibly beautiful.

The picture to the left comes courtesy of the incredible Hubble Telescope.

You can find out more about the Red Planet at the NASA website

August 27, 2003

Congrats, New Group!

Congrats, New Group!
The new group of trainees officially became Peace Corps volunteers today in a ceremony at Coconuts Beach Resort. The very nice ceremony was highlighted by a funny speech by one of the new PCVs recounted all hilaious events of training.

Ambassador Charles Swindells was on hand to administer the oath and present the new volunteers with their treasured ID cards. He's the distingished gentleman to right, one of the few people in the picture who doesn't look like he just arrived on Fantasy Island.

The new group will all be working in Village Based Development, Intercoastal Management and the Future Farmers program. Welcome aboard and best of luck to all of you in the next two years.

I almost didn't make it to the ceremony. I was woken up right before 4am with a searing pain in the middle toe of my right food. When I tried to touch my, the pain was excruciating. I wasn't sure what happened, but my first thought was that I was bitten by a centipede. I hobbled out of bed, opened the med kit, sucked down some antihistamene and 4 Aleve. Even with the pain didn't go away for several hours and I couldn't get back to sleep.

I needed to get back to sleep if I was going to be at coherent the next, even if it was only for a few hours. The alarm didn't wake me up, but I popped up out of bed with a few minutues to spare before the last bus arrived which would get me into town to the hotel where the trainees were staying.

I was tired I almost fell off the bus when I tried to get off. I sucked a cup of tea at the hotel and somehow managed to get through the day.

The worst part about this is I couldn't catch the centipede and kill it which would have mad me feel a hell of lot better. Of course, the kittens were totally useless. They slept through the whole thing.

Coke Girl

Coke Girl

Jake Update

Jake Update
Jake seems to be doing really well. I've been giving her antibiotics everyday and though she loves to spit it out, with patience, I eventually get her swallow the pill. She has no signs of infection, which is amazing considering she lives outdoors and has no real way to keep her face, which has considerable damage, clean and tidy.

I've also been feeding her. I've been saving the scraps that I normally chuck outside to the dogs and instead bring them down to work to feed Jake. She doesn't seem to mind getting the leftovers. In fact, she's downright thrilled. It's a nice change from dealing with my ingrate little kittens.

All the Samoans, the security guards, the people who run the food stand, and others hanging around behind the elevators at the government building probably think I'm insane. But what's another insane palagi? They think we're all valea anyway.

Pua'a

When I originally built American Idle, I had a section on it called, "Word of the Week". I built little flash movies to explain Samoan words. The idea was to have a new one every week (duh!), but I couldn't keep it up. It just wasn't sustainable and if I learned one thing being in the Peace Corps, it's the importance of sustainability.

Anyway, I don't want to give up on the idea entirely, because there are some really great Samoan words, and I want to share, because that's the kind of guy I am. I've been playing around with this idea of "Word of the Moment" for long time, and now I'm finally going to do something about it, so here it goes.

Pua'a, as you might already know from reading about keke pua'a means "pig" in Fa'aSamoa. It's got a glottal stop, which can be tricky to pronounce, so I'm going to teach you how to do it.

Think of the word "uh-oh". Say it outloud. Hear the pause in the middle. Now say "ah-ah" in the same way. Add "pooh", like the bear, in front. "pooh ah-ah". Now say it fast and you have pua'a. It's actually not that tough to say.

Now you want to make sure you don't accidentally say "pua'i", because that means "to barf", as in, malie le loto, sa ou pua'i i lou pua'a , which translates to something like, "excuse me, but I seem to have thrown up on your pig."

Fautasi is coming!

The Quiet American
Fautasi boats are massive boats, with crews of 50 or so, that are raced a few times a year in Samoa. The races between villages are the highlight of Independence Day and the upcoming Teuila Festival. These boats are funded and campaigned by individual communities and the competition is quite fierce with crews training hard for months before major regattas. There is so much prestige for the winning village that the teams practice until they're exhausted and their hands are bloody with blisters.

For the last few weeks, a couple of boats in the Apia area have been practicing in the harbor. Some guy in the back of the boat is keeping the beat for the rowers by banging a drum which you can hear all over town. It's almost primal feeling to hear the beating of the drum as you see these huge boats flying across the water.

I've been trying to find more information about the boats online, but it's difficult to track anything down. I know that the boats are unique to the islands of American Samoa, Western Samoa and Tonga. They range in length from 90 to 105 feet or so and rowed from somewhere between 44 and 62 44 oarsmen and one helmsman. It's not a lot to go on, but it's something. I'm going to try to find out more at library some time this week.

I saw the races on Independence Day, June 4th. Hundreds of people were gathered 5-10 deep ll around the perimeter of our circular harbor to watch the finale of the race, which was something of an anti-climax because the race was shortened for some unknown reason and nobody knew when the boats were going to arrive.

Keke Pua'a

Keke Pua'a
There is something of a Chinese influence in modern Samoan cuisine that came about when immigrants from China came to the island to work. There's stir fry (falai) and chow mein and chop suey (sopisui).

My personal favorite of all of the sino-samoan foods is keke pua'a. If you're a dim sum fan and you know what bao is, then you have a pretty good idea of what to expect from keke pua'a. It's doughy pastry filled with pork. At least they used to be pork-filled. Nowadays most keke pua'a are filled with mamoe, or lamb, which wouldn't be so bad except that most of the lamb in Samoa is 90% fatty "flaps". Absolutely disgusting.

There is one place that I know of, Nettie's Market, where you can buy traditional keke pua'a made from pork. They are delicious and they cost 1 tala. What a deal.

August 26, 2003

Who Remembers When? Who Cares?

Faitala. Faitala. Faitala.

Faitala means gossip in Samoan, both the verb and the noun. It's also the name of the bimonthly newsletter put out by Peace Corps volunteers here. The newsletter is a conglomeration of news, stories, tips and humor (sort of).

The last issue had a story about "Crisis Corps" arriving in Micronesia, tips on fighting body odor, horoscopes, a profile of Bob Marley amongst other items. Most of it was actually good.

However, there was also a story inside entitled "Who Remembers When?: Good Time in Samoa." This article about the misadventures (mostly drunken) of a few PCVs is just plain offensive.

Why I do I need to read about volunteers falling over themselves, making fools of themselves and being embarrasing American idiots? I don't. No one does. Maybe this stuff happens sometimes, but so what? It's neither funny nor poignant, so I don't need it. This is personal stuff. It doesn't need to be broadcast to other volunteers, to the Peace Corps staff or anyone in Samoa who should happen upon a copy of Faitala.

If it's not bad enough that this story never should have seen print, there's a discaimer at the bottom which states, "Please do not take this article to mean that all PC Samoa volunteers are “drunks”". The insuation that any volunteers are "drunks" is not only insulting, it's asinine. You'd think volunteers were waking up in the morning, taking the day's first swig of hooch, falling asleep in the street in the middle of the day and spending their last sene on gutrot. Isn't that what drunks do? PCVs like to drink, some might even be alcoholics, but drunks? I don't think so.

I wrote an email to the editors letting them know how I felt. If I felt like this, think how the volunteers who were named in the story felt. The response was less then enthusiastic, as you can imagine.

One of the editors wanted to have a "little" talk with me, which is fine, except I didn't think I had anything more to add. I was curious, however, to see what she would say. She tells me that they are so happy to have submissions, that they'll print just about anything, which is both sad and pathetic. What If I wrote a story about how foul and obonoxious some volunteers are? Would they print that? I suppose they would.

She claimed Faitala was an open forum, which it's not. It's a closed forum. What are they going to do, print a retraction or an apology in the next newsletter 2 months from now when people have forgotten all about it. I don't think so. On the other had, this is site is an open forum. Feel free to comment away and tell me I'm ass. Go ahead, make my day.

She then went on to blame me for not saying anything before since I happened to be in the room when she was doing the final edits on the newsletter. As if I had any clue what stories she was working on. This is a very sad reality here of people not taking responsiblity for their actions.

The only thing she apologized for was taking the writer's word that all the volunteers mentioned in the story had been contacted and were ok with the contents. Of course, this turned out to be a complete load of shit.

Apparently the author was told that she had to get approval of all the mentioned volunteers. Not only did she not ask everybody, when she did ask them, at least on one occasion, she refused to share the contents of the story, was subsequently denied permission to run it by the volunteer, and went ahead and did it anyway. Could you be more disrespectful to your fellow volunteers? I suppose you could, but it would take concerted effort.

Meanwhile, the author found out about my objections to the printing of her story, and is none too pleased. I don't have a problem with her (at least until I discovered her "approval" methods). She can write all the stupid, offensive drivel she wants. The editors have the responsiblilty to make the judgement about what does and what does not belong in a volunteer newsletter. Anyway, this author has been telling people that I have no business making comments about her article because (apropos of nothing) I'm a bad volunteer.

Even if I am a bad volunteer (does she know what I do? does she know what my motivations are? I think you know the answer to that) what difference does it make if I have problem with her story? I think if anyone her criticized her story would be labeled a "bad volunteer" the same way anyone criticizes the current administration is "anti-American."

On top of all this, the story also commits the horrible sin of trying to be funny and failing miserably. You don't have to take my word for it. You can read the whole thing below (names withheld out of respect, which is more than I can say for Faitala.

Who Remembers When?
Good Times in Samoa
By ***** *******

There have been so many events in Samoa that we all end up laughing about. I mean lets face it, most of us are walking train wrecks and here we are all together on a little island. Outcome? A lot of seriously funny shit happening. So let’s just take a few faitala minutes to have a cozy stroll down memory lane…

Who remembers? Ah yes, let’s not forget the time when **** and ******* in a “very sober state” decided to try to get on the cruise ship that had docked in the harbor. Did it work? Ok, honestly if **** had done the talking, maybe. But ******* decided to play it cool and give a false room number to the security guard that was NOT, of course, a room number on that same ship. Then proceeds to try and chat the guy up in order to get a glimpse at greatness. Sorry ******* , no go. It’s not Samoa everywhere. Try again next time!

Who Remembers? ****’s going away party—now there were a couple of funnies there. First we had the Aussie guy come up to a group of us “gorgeous ladies” and beg for him to take a picture with us in it. Oh Dear God. And then ***** had to put the smack down on one guy who tried to touch booty—uh, no thanks!! Let’s not forget the pole dancing—didn’t ****** go for that one too?

Who Remembers? Group 70 fiafia. ****, sasa and a whole lot of “what the hell is going on??” There ****jumping around and acting the fool, which was what he was supposed to do, but then messing up the sasa big time. Humerous and endearing ****. Very good run for your money, man.

Who Remembers? Biting it--takin’ a spill--fallin’ on yo’ ass. Who is on that list? Oh, everyone. ***** accomplished that task twice in one day on the stairs. ******* biffed in training with ******laughing too hard to help her (bitch!). ****** generally trips over her feet a lot (kidding!). Has *** ever fallen? We won’t even begin about *******…

Who Remembers? ******* in Nuie deciding it was a fantastic idea to jump from the roof into the pool. And then everyone follows suit! *****, stop playing the bucket drum! No!! The bucket drum goes over the railing down a cliff—we’ll wait till morning to scale it guys.

Who Remembers? Trying NOT to confuse a taxi driver who is dropping you off in Moto'otua. Stop here at the pole…no HERE, no just a uh, shit. Yeah thanks. Fa.

Who Remembers? *** getting dancing lessons from ***** on how to “freak” properly. How low can you really go? I think we need to ask *** that question!!

Who Remembers? ***** having to do the walk of shame and leave out the service entrance of Aggies. Why? Oh just cause she snuck in in the wee morning hours to hang out with a NZ rugby player, whose freakin name is Anzack (sic) (as in the day!!) Who would have thought—hey *****, do all Samoan guys wear panties?

Who Remembers? When ***** passed out and ****** danced around him creating a work of art out of his face. Does ***** ever wake up? Is he impossible to stir or what? Don’t forget the mustache ******! And don’t forget when *******’s name was tattooed on ***’s nether-regions. Do we even want to know about this one?

Who Remembers? ALL THE NIGHTS AT MT. VAEA!!

There are so many wonderful memories that I will be taking home from my PC experience. These are only a few. It’s important to re-cap why we are here, who we share laughs with, and generally who makes an ass of themselves! God knows I’ve done it more than once. So let the beat go on…

***Additional Disclaimer: These are the views of one PCV and do not reflect the views or attitudes of PC USA, PC Samoa, or CD/Senior Staff of PC Samoa. Please do not take this article to mean that all PC Samoa volunteers are “drunks”.


August 25, 2003

More PCVs Head for Home

More PCVs head for home
Another group of volunteers left the fair shores of Samoa and headed home tonight. They join ranks of the thousands of RPCVs (returned Peace Corps volunters) who've left their country of service and began the adjustment to life at home.

There are RPCV organizations all over the country and the world. The groups are specific both to region (RPCVS of Northern California) and country (Friends of Samoa). They serve to contunie the great service and perpetuate the mission of the Peace Corps through fund raising, awareness raising and hell raising. (well, I made up the last one.)

Bon Voyage to all departing PCVs.

Naked Chef II

Beef with Soy Sauce and Ginger

2 (8 ounce/ 225 gram) sirloin steaks
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 pak choy or bok choy (even spinach or any other greens will do)
8 tablespoons soy sauce
1 thumb-sized piece of ginger, peeled
1 chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
1/2 a garlic clove, finely grated
1 lime, juiced
Olive oil

On a very hot griddle pan, cook your seasoned piece of sirloin steak until medium or to your liking. Place in a plate and allow to rest for 2 minutes.

Now cook your greens in salted boiling water until tender.
While hot, douse with a good couple of tablespoons of soy sauce, and sprinkle
with the garlic, ginger, chilli, lime juice and olive oil.

When the greens are cooked, simply divide onto two plates, thinly slice up the sirloin steaks, place on top of the greens and drizzle with any of the infused sauce left on the resting plate.


A good friend of mine just sent the entire contents (all 112 glorious pages) of Jamie Oliver's Naked Chef 2 cookbook in MS Word. The book has tons of recipes that I can make with ingredients I can pick up locally here in Samoa. I can't get "purple basil" or proscuitto, or a few other things, but I can live with that.

Remember, it's not the chef that's naked, it's the food! Sorry to disappoint.

I was searching online for information about Jamie Oliver and I found a few articles about the release of a fake book and has the publishers over at Penguin UK all in uproar. Apparently, these recipes from various publications of the Naked Chef have been compiled into a fake book and emailed to millions of people worldwide. Of course, the publishers are in a stew because this fake book is going to hurt sales, or so they think. It might have the opposite effect as thousands of people who might have never heard of Jamie Oliver are getting to know him.

I don't know how or where my buddy got this book. I actually don't care.
All I know is that I'm making beef with soy sauce and ginger some time this week.

Want to come over for dinner?

I've Got Worms!

I've Got Worms!
I don't really have worms. I've got one worm. Something called the W32.Welchia.Worm has infected my computer and I don't know what to do about it.

The worm starts uploading information as soon as I get online. This wouldn't be such a big deal except that in Samoa, Internet accounts are charged by the Megabyte and by the hour, and it's slowing my already tortoise-like conection down to standstill.

When I realized I had a virus of somesort I downloaded Ad-Aware to remove any spyware that could be trying to send massive amounts of data from my machine over the net. This didn't do anything but delete a few useless cookies.

Then this afternoon, I went over to a friends office to install the latest version of Norton Anti-Virus (2003) which is how I discovered the worm. But Norton can figure out how to delete it.

I'm goinging through the documetion online right to see if I can find a solution and get rid of this nasty little parasite. Any suggestions greatly appeciated.

***update***
It looks like Symantec has a "tool" to disable and remove the worm. I'm going to go download it and see how it works for me. Wish me luck.

August 24, 2003

Bagels in Paradise

Bagels in Paradise

Anyone who has been following my exploits on American Idle knows that been doing a lot of baking lately. Mostly I've been cooking up pizzas, experimenting with different formulas for dough and toppings. I've had some very impressive successes and some monumental failures, but it's most been a lot of fun to play around in the kitchen.

I haven't really delved into anything more serious for lack of equipment. But in the last week or so, I have picked up a few things here and there from departing volunteers and have added some more essentials to my growing collection of kitchenware including a massive stockpot, baking dishes and measuring spoons. Now I have just about everything I need to make bagels. BAGELS!!!!!!

If there's one thing that I've been craving that I can't get in Samoa, it's bagels. There's a great bakery in town called Mari's that has bagels on the menu, but I've never actually seen them for sale. For the longest time, I had been expecting another PCV in my group to make them, but after repeated claims, he never came through. A fellow volunteer did bring me a bag of sesame bagels from Hawaii on her return from the States, but they disappeared in a hurry, and that was a long time ago. Since I now have all the tools at hand, I couldn't wait any longer. It was time to get my hands dirty and cook up some Jewish soul food. (What are you supposed to do when the closest bagelry is 4,000 miles away across a large body of water?)

I went down to Lucky Foodtown and picked up 3 kinds of flour, all-purpose, whole wheat and cornmeal. I bought a jar of molasses from Chan Mow (I was going to try to make the pumpernickel variation even thought I couldn't find rye anywhere in Samoa, but, to be honest, I didn't look that hard). Everything else in the recipe I had on hand (water, sugar, salt, egg, yeast).



This morning, after feeding the kittens, I started getting down to business. I mixed the dough in my new, very large enamel mixing bowl. It was a major pain. The recipe calls for an electric mixer to whip up the 5? cups of flour and water into a dough. I don't have an electric mixer. All I've got is a wooden spatula, my hands and my Greek God like forearms. I worked over the dough for something like half an hour to get it to smooth out. It wasn't totally smooth, but I was worn out, so fuck it, time to move to next step.

The dough sat covered for 40 minutes to rise. In the meantime, I played FreeCell (I'm addicted, I admit it) and lost an auction on eBay for an IBM 1 GIG micro drive that I was desperate to win. I need it for my new camera. Oh well. I'll find another one somewhere else.

Back in the kitchen, I removed the towel and looked at the dough. It had risen to twice its original size, but the color was more of a light, whole wheat brown, than the dark pumpernickel I was expecting. Maybe I didn't put in enough molasses. Or was it the missing rye? (look of confusion)

It was time to start forming the bagels.

There seem to be two schools of thought on this. One method of bagel formation involves rolling the dough into a rough sphere, then poking a hole through the middle with your thumbs and then pulling at the dough around the hole to make the bagel. This is the "hole-centric" method.

The second method involves making a long cylindrical worm of dough and wrapping it around your hand into a loop and mashing the ends together. This is the "dough-centric" method. The latter seemed overly complex so I went with the "hole-centric" method.


It doesn't really matter how you make them, as long as they aren't made with something like a cookie cutter. Otherwise you risk pushing your bagels out of the Jewish realm and making them distinctly Gentile. Bagels are not meant to be symmetrical and perfect. Like snowflakes, no two genuine bagels should be exactly alike.

I separated the dough into 12 little, roughly even balls. This is harder than it seems. How do you judge 1/12th of a big a chunk of dough? It turns out I couldn't. But I nailed 1/11th right on the head. I didn't want to make 11 bagels. It just didn't seem right. 13, okay. 12, right on. But 11? Uh-unh. I just pulled a little bit from each of the 11 to make the 12th and I was ready to move on to the formation.

I flattened each sphere down and poked holes in the center with my thumbs, smoothing the dough and trying to maintain a roughly round shape. It's amazing. It's actually starting to look like I'm going to have a dozen bagels on my hands in no time at all. Now we're starting to get somewhere.

I placed the bagels on my floured cutting board to rise again while I boiled the sugar water mixture in the stock pot. I didn't have any granulated sugar so I used brown sugar. What did it matter?

After 20 minutes, the bagels had risen about ? again, the water was simmering gently and it was time for bagels to take a hot bath. The bagels should sink first, then gracefully float to the top of the simmering water. If they float, it's not a big deal, but it does mean that you'll have a somewhat more bready (and less bagely) texture.

There was nothing even remotely graceful about my bagels. They just popped right up to the surface. After soaking for 4-5 minutes, the dough was as wrinkled as an old Yenta after a long bath.

I could only boil 4 bagels at a time. After 3 shifts of soaking, I laid them all out on baking sheet sprinkled with cornmeal. I was supposed to brush the tops lightly with a wash of egg yolk, but when I took my one remaining egg out of the fridge, it was frozen solid.



I'm having some climate control issues with my refrigerator at the moment. It turned out not to be such a big deal. I let the egg thaw just enough so that I could easily pull off the semi-frozen egg whites, then defrosted the yolk by gently whipping it with a fork.

I threw the bagels in the oven at 200 degrees Celsius (400F). In 30 minutes, I had 12 steaming golden brown bagels. I was supposed to let them cool, but I couldn't wait. I cracked one open and slapped on cream cheese. Delicious! Give me some smoked whitefish and I'd be in absolute heaven.

(What's really impressive is that I managed to make these bagels despite the smell of a recently deceased and decaying rat that was festering above the ceiling in my kitchen. The odor would have overcome a lesser man.)

The best part came when I brought a few bagels over to my neighbors two doors down, Masima and Fetu. I doubt they've ever had bagels before so they wouldn't have anything to compare them against. And, being Samoan, they would never tell me if they didn't like them. It doesn't really matter. What matters is that for once I was able to share a little part of my culture with Samoans who've given me so much of theirs.


THE BASIC BAGEL

Amount Measure Ingredient -- Preparation Method
---------- ----------- ------------------------------------------
2 c Warm water (100 to 115 -deg.F)
2 pk Active dry yeast
3 tb Sugar
3 ts Salt
About 5 3/4 cups All-purpose flour (unsifted)
3 qt Water with 1 Tbl sugar
    Cornmeal
1   Egg yolk beaten with 1 Tbl -water

Combine water and yeast in the large bowl of an electric mixer.


Let stand 5 minutes. Stir in sugar and salt.

Gradually mix in 4 cups of the flour. Beat at medium speed for 5 minutes. With a spoon, mix in about 1 1/4 cups more flour to make a stiff dough. Turn out on a floured board and knead until smooth, elastic, and no longer sticky, about 15 minutes.

Add more flour as needed (dough should be firmer than for most other yeast breads). Place in a greased bowl, cover, and let rise in a warm place until almost doubled, about 40 minutes. Knead dough lightly, then divide into 12 equal pieces. To shape, knead each piece, forming it into a smooth ball. Holding ball with both hands, poke your thumbs through the center. With one thumb in the hole, work around perimeter, shaping bagel like a doughnut, 3 to 3 1/2 across. Place shaped bagels on a lightly floured board, cover lightly, and let stand in a warm place for 20 minutes. Bring the water-sugar mixture to boiling in a 4 or 5 quart pan.

Adjust heat to keep it boiling gently. Lightly grease baking a baking sheet and sprinkle with cornmeal. Gently lift one bagel at a time and drop into water.

Boil about 4 at a time, turning often, for 5 minutes. Lift out with a slotted spatula, drain briefly on a towel, and place on the baking sheet. Brush bagels with the egg yolk glaze and bake in a 400 deg.F oven for about 35 to 40 minutes, or until well browned and crusty. Cool on a rack. Makes 12.

WHOLE WHEAT BAGELS -----+-----+------ Follow basic
recipe, omitting sugar; use 3 Tbl honey instead. In
place of the flour, use 2 cups whole wheat, 1/2 cup
wheat germ, and about 2 3/4 cups all-purpose flour.
Mix in all the whole wheat flour and wheat germ and 1
1/4 cups all-purpose flour before beating dough. Then
mix in about 1 1/2 cups more all-purpose flour, knead,
and finish as directed.

PUMPERNICKEL BAGELS *+* Follow basic recipe, omitting
sugar; instead use 3 Tbl dark molasses. In place of
the flour use 2 cups each rye and whole wheat and
about 1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour. Add all the rye
and 1 cup each of the whole wheat and all-purpose
before beating dough. Then add remaining 1 cup of
whole wheat and about 3/4 cup more all-purpose flour,
knead, and finish as directed.

MORE BAGEL VARIETY ----+-----+------- Try adding 1/2
cup instant toasted onion to the whole wheat or basic
bagels; add it to the yeast mixture along with the
sugar and salt. Or sprinkle 1/2 tsp poppy or sesame
seed or 1/4 tsp coarse salt on each glazed bagel
before baking. Or add 1 Tbl caraway seed to
pumpernickel bagels, then sprinkle each glazed bagel
with 1/2 tsp more caraway seed before baking.



August 22, 2003

Bada Bing!

I picked up a TV and a VCR from a departing PCV. I don't really need it. I have lived without a TV for a long time and could continue to do so indefinately. However, it is another good insight in the culture.

I have a remote control, but I can't exactly sit on the couch and channel surf. There's one channel here: Televise Samoa. (There is cable, but it's damn expensive) It's important that I keep track of the programming because it's the major water-cooler talk at the office.

TV Samoa shows some western programming, kids shows from Australia, "Ed", a few other various and sundry items. There's news from the BBC and New Zealand. There's lots of sports, but mostly rugby. There's a great music show on Sunday's called "My Kind of Music", which shows videos or concerts for an hour from one performer or group (last week: J-Lo). And there's a movie every night. It's not always great, but it's there.

TV Samoa is so small that I we can call up and request movies and they will played later in the week. How cool is that? I suppose the programming director just goes to the local video store and picks it off the shelf. I don't think there's much consideration about copyright issues.

Sarah, who sold me the TV, also left me a massive box of videos. Some movies. Some TV shows taped at home and sent here. A lot of crap, really. But there are two tapes of "The Sopranos" and I'm slowly going through the episodes. Bada Bing Baby!

August 21, 2003

Accommodation

From: "Lafi, Esera"
To: "Andrew Hecht (E-mail)" <>
Subject: Accommodation
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 16:19:29 -1100

Still not being able to get hold of Maiava (told early this morning that
he was in a Management meeting) but did talk to the new Secretary for
Housing.

From what he said, Claire's house at Vaiala has been taken. I requested
him to scout out for a vacant /available place in and around Apia for you.
I have followed that up with a letter requesting a house and I reminded
him that you need to get out of Fagalii and I would appreciate if he can
find a house. I will continue to communicate with him and hope that he can come up with the goods. Tried to get hold of Maiava again after 3:00pm but was
told that he went out. Will keep on trying??

Going Nowhere

I talked to Maiava today at work and he said that he hasn't been able to get in touch with his "buddy" at Public Works. I don't think anything is ever going to happen. It's such a fucken mess. If I don't get Claire's house, which I have more and more doubts about, I don't know where I'm going to live. I don't know of any other furnished place in town.

New Neighbors

New NeighborsFor the last several mornings, I've been hearing the yelping of puppies that sound like they are being restrained or something. I could only take it for so long. Then I would walk outside to try to find out what the fuck was going on, and it would stop.

This morning I heard it again. I walked down towards the next house where I thought it was coming from, but didn't hear a thing. Then, as I headed back towards my place, I could hear the canine cries coming front right in front of my house.

Inside a large tree stump about 10 feet from my front door were 4 spanking new puppies. The mother is the dog who bit me on my first night at my house (she is scared to death of my camera). I've forgiven her indiscretion and starting feeding her scraps that my kittens won't eat. She now wags her tail with anticipation when I get off the bus or arrive on my bike and protects my house from strangers. Not a bad deal.

So now she's got this litter of puppies. It will interesting to see how long they last. Samoans love puppies. A few have been stolen from Peace Corps volunteers and I doubt these little guys will be around for long. I'd like one, but I don't really need another mouth to feed and the kittens would probably beat the crap out of the toughest of the lot.

August 20, 2003

Go Slugs!

Go Slugs!
Princeton Review has released its rankings for American Universities, and UC Santa Cruz, not any big surpise here, is ranked number one for best campus. It's an amzaing place, situated on the hills amidst the redwoods overlooking the Monterrey Bay. It's also the largest campus in the country by quite some margin.

In something of a coup Santa Cruz finished out of the top ten (13th) in the "Birkenstock-Wearing, Tree-Hugging, Clove-Smoking Vegetarians" category. The place must have gone through some kind of transformation since I graduated.

You can find the Princeton Review rankings here

Al Franken In Sorry State

Al Franken In Sorry State
Comedian apologizes to Ashcroft for "imprudent attempt at satire"

AUGUST 20--Comedian Al Franken last month wrote an apology letter to Attorney General John Ashcroft, admitting that he was not truthful when he previously sought Ashcroft's views on abstinence.

Read more from the Smoking Gun

August 19, 2003

Cat Nip in the Peace Corps Office

Of all the things to find left in the "free" box in the Peace Corps, I discovered a little plastic container of cat nip. I quickly nabbed it and brought it to home to drug the kittens.

I was worried it might have lost it's potency because it says on the label, "store in a cool, dry place" and Samoa is anything but cool and dry. However, as I opened the top, the cats were all over it like a junkie in heroin den.

They were fighting to get there little faces into the tub and Fil reached in with her paw and dumped a load of nip on the floor, then proceeded to roll all over it. It's good kitty fun.

August 18, 2003

Yachties in Apia for Teuila

Yacht Owners in Town
by Malia Sio and Josephine Nickel
18 August 2003

Couple Clive and Jane Green are in town with friends Niel and Brycea Meyer.
The couples have just come from the Northern Cooks, and will be here for our Teuila festivities.

They are part of some 30 yachts of all sizes moored inside Apia Harbor.

The Greens have been travelling from east to west and their next ports of call will be Tonga, Fiji, Australia and New Zealand.

Thecouple are both retired and plan to travel around for a while before settling down in England.

The Meyers however are on much younger and plan to sail around the world for another three years before they get back into work. Niel is an engineer while Brycea is a hotel operator.

The couples both commented on how friendly are people they’ve met so far.

“It would be difficult to say anything other then complimentary remarks about Samoa,” Mr Green said.

“The food is great and the prices are reasonable.” That is compared to say French Polynesia, where they traveled through.

“Samoa is a great place for shopping and eating out,” he added.

The yacht facilities down at the local wharf have also been satisfying for the couples. With showers and everything that the yachties need for the security of their boats.

They also pointed out that government should be mindful of the importance of yachties and the kind of money they inject into the local economy. This is compared to the regular cruise ship passenger who spends only hours in the country and while here, usually dine at the ship’s restaurants.

“We basically spend around $US500 ($1500) in a month, when we visit Apia. This is because we stay longer on the island, we buy supplies of food to fill up our yachts and we explore the restaurants, bars, and shops day and night and we always enjoy the church services on Sundays,” said Mr. Green.

He also added that they will be renting a car to take a sightseeing tour of the island next week.

“We give money straight to the grassroots of Samoa, because we buy fruits and handicrafts from the markets, we eat out at the restaurants and we shop around the many stores in town,” said Mr. Green.

The Greens say that they’ll be settling down soon, when they manage to sell their boat.

The Meyer’s yacht was built in South Africa and he says that Springboks beer is not as good as the local Vailima.

“We will always come back for Samoan beer eh,” he laughed.

The two couples will be staying over for the duration of the Teuila Festival and say that they will visit Samoa again.


August 16, 2003

American Policy Upsets Locals

Locals and Peace Corps volunteer alike are struggling with the new American polisy that requires Samoans seeking visas to the U.S. to visit the embassy in Auckand, New Zealand or Suva, Fiji for paperwork, instead of completeing the application here in Samoa.

Apparently the reason for the change in policy is security following 9/11. I fully understand considering what a threat Samoans represent to integrity of the continental United States.

Several PCVs with Samoan significant others have had to deal with this new policy that's going to make it all but impossible to bring their boyfriends/girlfriends or husbands/wives home with them.

American policy upsets locals
by Malia Sio
16 August 2003

Local resident Avalogo Tony - who has been trying to get an American visa for his mother to travel to her cousin's wedding in Hawaii - is very unhappy.
The American Embassy in Apia is enforcing a new United States policy that became effective on 1 August.

This requires many applicants for American visas to now travel to Auckland for a personal interview with a consular officer at the American Consulate-General there.

This is despite the Americans having an embassy in Apia, which was previously able to handle most visa applications.

"The new policy is very inconvenient," he said. "We really cannot afford to pay her fare to New Zealand, when even then we will not be sure if she will get the visa or not."

He said his mother was booked to leave this week. But because of the difficulty getting a visa, the village pastor has taken his mother's wedding present on her behalf.

COMPLAINTS
He is not alone in his displeasure. Local travel agencies said yesterday they are getting many complaints about the new policy.

Patsy Annandale, of Polynesia Travel and Tours, said:

"People have been complaining and I don't blame them. Who can afford to travel to New Zealand then if the visa is not granted, fly back?"

A representative of Jane's Travel and Tours, who did not want to be named, said:

"It is just so expensive and inconvenient now for the people. It is just so complicated to travel to Hawaii or the U.S. these days."

The head of Air New Zealand operations here, Ricky McFall, said:

"The new policy has surely made it inconvenient for the general public to travel. The new travellers that do not have former American visas are really finding it hard."

Air New Zealand operates direct flights between Apia and Los Angeles.

Mr McFall added that it also means some people now also have to get a New Zealand visa, so they can go to Auckland to apply for their American visa.

He said the process is "just too costly now".

Mr McFall said that not only have Samoans been affected by these new policies, so have other Pacific Islanders.

SUVA
For example, Tongans who had previously been able to send their passports and applications to the United States embassy in Fiji now have to travel to Suva personally.

The visa policy applies to most people between the ages of 16 and 60 who are using Samoan passports who do not have American multiple entry visas. Exceptions include those who have multiple entry visas that have recently expired.

The American embassy charge d'affaires in Apia, Joe Murphy, said that it does not surprise him that this new policy has caused inconvenience to some people.

He also confirmed that those who are interviewed in Auckland are not guaranteed to be granted an immediate visa.

However, he urged people to understand that the new policies were made in light of the heightened security caused by the 11 September 2001 terrorist attacks on America and other threats.

"We have tried to make it a little easier for the people by asking the Consular General in Auckland to accept local people without appointments," he said.

The travel to New Zealand is an added expense, he agreed.

He also added that local Samoans can also travel to Suva, Fiji , to apply for a visa at their embassy or anywhere in the world where visas are being issued.

"However, the New Zealand office is taking in people on a walk in basis," he said. "The other countries might require an appointment first."


August 15, 2003

Jake Update

Jake LaMotta
I met the vet from the APS (Animal Protection Society) at the government building to see about poor Jake. The vet, a volunteer from Japan named Kazuo, de-wormed her (I found out he is a she) and gave me antibiotics to make sure her wounds don't get infected. He also removed a large piece of fur/skin that was hanging dangerously from her nose to the top of her head. It was painful for her, but I think it's for the best.

I'd like to take her in, but my house is already a crazy managerie with my two kittens. And I don't know how they'd take to her. I'm going to try to find her a new home, but if I can't, I will consider adopting her, but only if I move to a larger place.

I brought her some food today (stuff my kittens didn't want to eat) and she was grateful she was purring the whole time she stuffed her faced. It was so cute.

August 14, 2003

Filemu Shake

Filemu Shake

Flowers at the Bus Stop

Flowers

Full up

Jake LaMotta
The harbor is chok full of sailboats at the moment. There's more than 20 now with more arriving every day. It is amazing to see. It sort of happens in slow motion, or maybe time lapse, since the harbor never changes really, just more and more yachts show up. One day there are none, the next day there are twenty.

Boats should continue to arrive in increasing numbers until the Teuila Festival in last August. Then they will disappear, just as slowly as they make their way towards safer anchorages to hunker down for cyclone season which kicks up about November.

At some point I'm going to get a ride on one of them, even if it's just over to Savai'i.

School Girls

School Girls

I love this image, not because it's particularly beautiful or well-composed or anything, but just because it's so damn cute. I saw these two as I was getting ready to take a picture of the harbor and I just had to follow them and get a shot. I love that they are wearing the exact same outfit, right down to the matching single strap backpack.

"Jake LaMotta"

Jake LaMotta
"Jake" is the tabby who hangs out behind the government building where I work. I hadn't seen him in while. Then yesterday he was sitting in the shade, as usual, but he looked like he just went 10 rounds with Rocky Marciano (hence the name).

He was missing his left paw and his face was all bloody and smashed up. Who knows what happened. He might have been hit by a car. He might have had a run in with a dog. He might have had a run in with Samoan children.

I called the APS (Animal Protection Society) to come have a look at him and make sure he doesn't get a nasty infection. Poor little guy. Jake is going to tough it out. He's a bad little mutherfuka.


Filemu Montage

Filemu Montage

August 13, 2003

Mad Max Meets His Maker

Mad Max Meets His Maker
There's an interesting article on Salon.com about Mel Gibson's forthcoming movie, "The Passion", an anti-Semetic opus about the life of Jesus. The basic complaint is that the movie portrays the Jews "as bloodthirsty and vengeful" killers. I find this a trfile disturbing. When are people going to get over the "Jews killed Jesus" thing? I suppose never. Apropos of nothing, but didn't the Pope absolve us a few years back?

There are a few of "Jesus killers" amongst us in Samoa. For me, it's not such a big deal, since I live in Apia and don't have to go to chruch. I have a colleague, however, who lives in one of the most remote villages off the main road on Savai'i. She told me that her faifeau, or pastor, once referred to her as the "Anti-Christ". It would be pretty funny if weren' so damn scary.

You know what I say? Thank goodness for the healing powers of organized religion.

Mel Gibson vs. "The Jews" The "Mad Max" and "Braveheart" star says his new Jesus biopic "The Passion" could never be anti-Semitic because it's historically correct -- a dumb, and dangerous, claim to make.

- - - - - - - - - - - -
By Christopher Orlet


Aug. 14, 2003 | Think of it as "Mad Max Meets His Maker." Only this time the bad guys are Jews -- and lots of them -- donning the vestments of holy men. It's been a while since Hollywood's bad guys wore sidelocks and yarmulkes instead of funny little mustaches or bedsheets. In fact you'd have to time-travel back to 1947, when the U.S. Motion Picture Project was set up to prevent negative portrayals and stereotypes of Jewish characters in films.

The film that has so stirred so much feeling among Jewish and Christian scholars is Mel Gibson's "The Passion," a retelling of the execution of Jesus of Nazareth, with apparently all the usual Gibson gore. Following a recent screening of the film, the Anti-Defamation League (ADL) voiced concerns that Gibson's film, which he co-wrote, produced and directed, "will fuel hatred, bigotry and anti-Semitism," and could kick off another round of bloodshed by disconsolate Christians who had just about gotten over their savior's death.

Rabbi Eugene Korn, the ADL representative who was present at the private screening at the Museum of Fine Arts in Houston, accused the filmmakers of portraying Jewish authorities and the Jewish mob as "forcing the decision to torture and execute Jesus; of weaving a narrative that oversimplifies history; and of committing numerous factual and historical errors, including relying on the visionary writings of a 17th century anti-Semitic nun."

The fact that an ADL representative was allowed to see the film at all is somewhat surprising, and comes only after months of pressure by pro-Jewish groups and intense media scrutiny. Until this week, the film had been screened only by a handpicked traditional Catholic audience and a few Jewish Gibson supporters, many of whom report that the Jews do indeed come off looking rather guilty of deicide. (The film itself won't be released for another seven months, but trailers for "The Passion" are already popping up on various Web sites.)

But it is not only the sometimes touchy ADL that is troubled. The Guardian newspaper this week quoted a panel of three Jewish and six Catholic scholars who translated and studied a draft script, and concluded that the film is indeed anti-Semitic and theologically inaccurate, portraying "The Jews" as bloodthirsty and vengeful. "All the way through, the Jews are portrayed as bloodthirsty," said Sister Mary C. Boys, one of the panelists and a professor at New York's Union Theological Seminary. As for stirring up anti-Semitic passions, Sister Mary told the New Republic that she has already begun receiving "vicious letters filled with personal attacks and anti-Semitic drivel." Confronted with these accusations, Gibson, a fundamentalist Catholic who has bankrolled an obscure Los Angeles sect that refuses to accept the Second Vatican reforms, including the Vatican's apology for Jewish persecution, readily admits the film may ruffle a few Jewish feathers, though it is not meant to. "It's meant just to tell the truth." Besides, he says, the Holy Spirit was dictating what really went into the film.

Of course, anything an Academy-Award winning actor and director produces is going to have an air of legitimacy about it, whatever the facts may be. But is "The Passion" an innocent Hollywood entertainment or a medieval passion play of the sort that in the Middle Ages stirred up the passions of the Christian mob and led to the butchering of the local Jewry?

Gibson has bragged about the historical veracity of his script, going so far as to film the movie in the Aramaic and Latin languages without subtitles. Scholars, however, have been quick to point out the film's obvious historical inaccuracies, which, it turns out, are legion. Indeed, any theological or biblical scholar could have told Gibson that few Roman soldiers were in Jerusalem, and rather were local draftees who would have spoken one of the local dialects, Mishnaic Hebrew or, based on funerary evidence, Greek. Similarly Pilate and the chief priest Caiaphas would have communicated in Greek, not Latin.

But Gibson's biggest sin, critics charge, is his portrait of Jewish culpability in Jesus' execution.

It should be noted that to Jews of the first century, Jesus of Nazareth was simply another false messiah, one of hundreds -- a Galilean village preacher with a ragtag following of Jewish fishermen who, in various statements, claimed to be the Jewish messiah, God's son and the Jewish king all wrapped into one. The traditional Jewish messiah, however, would not be a deity, but a bellicose homo sapiens, with a hankering to lead an uprising against the Romans, perhaps someone with the stature and nobility of Alexander the Great or Julius Caesar. To claim you were the messiah but that you were unconcerned with this world was absurd. Likewise, to preach that you were God's son was the supreme blasphemy, as well as the ultimate absurdity. God had no son, and whoever uttered such absurdities sealed his own doom.

So who was to blame for the execution of Jesus of Nazareth? The Jews? The Romans? Jesus himself? Christians who believe Jesus died for their individual sins are logically themselves responsible for his death, and have no cause to scapegoat "The Jews." But if we believe the Nazarene was simply a Jewish reformer executed by his own tribesmen for the crime of blasphemy, then he suffered the same fate as thousands of reformers from the Jewish Matthias to the Christian Savonarola. Or, we may believe that Jesus was crucified because of some perceived threat to Roman authority. Rome was, after all, interested in but one thing: order. If the Romans executed Jesus it was because he was seen as a considerable threat to the stability of the empire. The gospels hint only vaguely at this, in a scene showing Jesus causing some seemingly minor disturbance at the Jerusalem temple. No doubt there was more to the story. Writing in the New Republic this week, Paula Fredrikson, Aurelio professor of Scripture at Boston University and a member of a panel of scholars who studied Gibson's script, writes:

"The fact that Jesus was publicly executed by the method of crucifixion can only mean that Rome wanted him dead: Rome alone had the sovereign authority to crucify. Moreover, the point of a public execution ... was to communicate a message. Crucifixion itself implies that Pilate was concerned about sedition ... Jesus' death on the cross points to a primarily Roman agenda."

Sedition, then, seems the likely cause of Jesus' execution, and not some minor theological squabble among Jews.

Of the five discrepant biblical accounts of Jesus' trial, composed decades after his execution by men absent from his trial, none are very helpful, nor are the disciples very trustworthy sources. We know that early Christians put great emphasis on staying on the Romans' good side lest they lose potential converts or, worse, be massacred or driven out of Rome and Jerusalem like their Jewish brethren. It is not surprising then that early Christians would blame "The Jews" (who were even then the universal scapegoats) for Jesus' death, and that Matthew would make sure that 2,000 years hence "The Jews" would still be on the hook, by attributing to the Jewish multitude the fantastic quote: "His blood be on us and on our children." A peculiar thing for a Jewish mob to shout, it must be said. The Gospel writers are exceedingly clumsy in dealing with the trial of Jesus. Again and again the Roman prefect Pilate comes off not as the iron-fisted autocrat we know from history but as a lame, ineffectual pamby who is prevented from setting Jesus free by the bloodthirsty Jewish mob. The scene stretches credulity. Likewise, many scholars dispute the accuracy of the Jews' claim that Roman law forbids them to execute Jesus. In fact, the Jews of Jerusalem executed each other all the time. They stoned Jesus' brother James, and only a year or two after Jesus' death they stoned Stephen, the traditional first Christian martyr. A well-known sign (in Greek) in the Jerusalem temple promised death to any non-Jew who invaded the inner sanctum.

The most damning piece of evidence for Jewish culpability, however, comes down from the Roman-Jewish historian, Flavius Josephus, who wrote in the early 90s C.E.: "About the same time there lived Jesus, a wise man for he was a performer of marvelous feats and a teacher of such men who received the truth with pleasure. He attracted many Jews and many Greeks. He was called the Christ. Pilate sentenced him to die on the cross, having been urged to do so by the noblest of our citizens."

"The noblest of our citizens" urging Jesus' execution would seem to vindicate the gospel writers. And yet historians readily admit that early Christian writers monkeyed with Josephus' text, adding references to Jesus' resurrection, and, likely, the sentence about the "noblest of our citizens."

The fact is that the truths surrounding Jesus' execution will never be known. And what has been handed down to posterity is legend, vision, conjecture, superstition and doubtlessly historically inaccurate. But does the Gibson film discuss the differing accounts, the historical inaccuracies, and the political nuances involved in the trial and execution of Jesus of Nazareth? Don't count on it. The audience would soon be snoozing in their seats. Instead "The Passion" will most likely offer up the familiar puerile, stereotypical view of the evil Jew calling for Jesus' blood and the clueless Pilate begging him to reconsider. It is a view guaranteed to stir anew the passions of the rabid Christian, and one that will send the Jews scurrying back to the dark corners of history.


Grant Denied

I found out some bad news today. The grant I wrote to bring ICT equipment nd training to a local telecenter in Samoa was turned down by the Global Knowledge Partnership. [Apolima Telecenter Project (30K)]

It might not have been the quality of the grant that determined the outcome. There were 540 applicants and only four were selected. The winning grants were for projects in Nigeria, Cameroon, Mexico and the Solomon Islands. The successful grants also all orginated from non-governmental organizations whereas mine came from a government ministry. I don't know if this had anything to do with us being considered or not, but it is interesting.

I'm very disappointed since I put in a tremendous amount of effort into the grant and it would have provided me with some very meaningful work over the duration of my Peace Corps stay in Samoa. I'm going to press on and try to find another source of funding.

GOVERNMENT OF SAMOA

Ministry of Women, Social Services & Community Development

APOLIMA ICT TELECENTER PROJECT


MISSION STATEMENT
To improve the capability and affordability of information communication technology (ICT) for rural Samoans by adding computer terminals and Internet access to existing telecenters in Samoa.


VISION
Information and Communication Technologies for Every Samoan


THE OBJECTIVE
The aim of this project is to have a well-equipped & financed, fully-functioning, and self-sustaining computer telecenter in the village of Apolima that addresses the needs of rural residents by providing access to a modern telecommunications facility and provides a successful model for other villages around the country. The Telecenter will be managed by the village Women’s Committee with guidance and support from the Ministry of Women, Social Services & Community Development.


MINISTRY OF WOMEN, SOCIAL SERVICES & COMMUNITY DEVELOPMENT
The Ministry of Women Affairs was established by Act of Parliament in 1990 and opened office in April 1991. This made Samoa the first Pacific Island country to set up a separate ministry to address women’s issues. It is the principal means of promoting and ensuring the full development and advancement of women. Up to 1990, women’s issues were coordinated by a Women’s Desk in the Prime Minister’s Department. In 2002 a realignment of Samoan government ministries brought together Women’s Affairs, Internal Affairs & Youth into a new ministry, the Ministry of Women, Social Services & Community Development.


WOMEN’S COMMITTEES IN SAMOA
Women’s committees play a key role in organising educational programs for women in the rural areas. About 78% of Samoa’s population lives in the rural areas 48% of which are women. Rural women constitute about 78% of the total female population. Rural is here defined as the areas outside the Apia urban area. Rural women are highly organised with the traditional social hierarchy playing a major role in organisation throughout all spheres of rural life and with links extending to the urban center once families migrate internally.

WHAT ARE TELECENTERS?
Telecenters are strategically located facilities providing public access to ICT-based services and applications. They are typically equipped with some combination of:

· Telecommunication services such as telephony, fax, e-mail and Internet (via dial-up or ISDN, high-speed telecommunications network);
· Office equipment such as computers, CD-ROM, printers and photocopiers;
· Multimedia hardware and software, including radio, TV and video;
· Meeting spaces for local business or community use & training.

The main role of the telecenter is to provide drop-in or scheduled access to the wide range of communication and information services that are now obtainable through various ICTs thus allowing organisations and individuals to obtain information, transfer knowledge, make transactions, and generally increase their ability to communicate. Some examples of the activities taking place in a telecenter would be:

· The general public communicating regularly with people in country and internationally.
· Students and teachers using educational software, downloading courseware, and accessing on-line libraries and distance instructors through the Internet.
· Farmers obtaining guidance on agriculture, weather information, and monitoring market prices.
· Local administrators and society leaders using up-to-date information on basic social services such as water supply, sewage, education, infrastructure, and health (e-governance).
· Businesses conducting commercial transactions, obtaining office services such as fax, e-mail, and copying, and perhaps finding new markets.

Thus a telecenter can be seen as the point of delivery for government information or services, the community library of the future, a point of access to distance learning, a local or regional news service, or a business services center, depending on the needs of different users.


WHAT SERVICES DO TELECENTERS PROVIDE?
Telecenters provide the public with access to and training on basic information and communication technologies at affordable prices. These services are typically delivered using a common network infrastructure and software platform, such as the public telephone network, and may be subsidised for development purposes. They allow people access to the following services:

· Telephone calls (make calls, receive calls).
· E-mail and Internet access (send/receive e-mail, browse the web).
· Word processing (typing and formatting of letters, job applications and other
documents).
· Desktop publishing (newsletters, flyers, stationery, business cards, tickets, circulars,
· pamphlets, logos and computer artwork).
· Spreadsheets and databases (financial budgeting, bookkeeping, invoicing and farm
management).
· Computer use (hourly or daily rates can be charged for this).
· Education and training (distance education, tele-learning, face-to-face Adult and
Community Education).
· Computer training (basic computer literacy - keyboards, mouse, Windows etc.,
computer applications: spreadsheets, e-mail, word processing. etc.).
· Graphic design (assist with presentations, assignments, adverts).
· Printing (laser printing and copying for promotional materials and presentations)
· Web Page design (have your own personal “home page” designed, launched and
· regularly maintained through the Telecenter)
· Professional writing (Prepare grant applications and funding submissions).
· Scanning (scan pages of text or graphics (including photographs) for use in a
· newsletter, e-mail or for printing).
· Photocopying (school study material, circulars, newsletters, license applications, etc.
· with different colored papers available).
· Binding (for professional presentation of documents and booklets).
· Laminating (protect documents, business cards, posters, by sealing them in a durable clear plastic coating).
· Fax communications (send and receive documents to and from anywhere in the
· country or the world).
· Business and secretarial services (the Telecenter could act as a message service).
· Service directories (development of a local community phone directory - this could be printed out on paper as well as be in electronic format).
· Video conferencing (two-way audio and video conferencing with other regions).
· Video or still camera hire (daily or weekly hire of photo/video recording equipment for private, professional, business or community events).
· Internet searches (have Telecenter staff research your topic on the Internet for study, business or pleasure).
· Information services (for example, a Telecenter can act as an employment agency, and advertise vacancies and staff availability. Government information, up-to-date local and world news, market prices, trade opportunities, classified advertisements and other information of interest to the community can also be made available. These can be made available online and also printed out and fixed to the bulletin board outside the Telecenter.)
· On-line banking facilities (financial institutions now make it possible for customers to conduct their financial affairs electronically. A Telecenter can help users to access the services offered by their bank).


Telecenters may be used to provide access to distance education, employment
opportunities, training and business enterprise. Telecenters allow entrepreneurs and
business people to plan and prepare their arrangements and to communicate with
partners and potential clients from a distance. Through the Internet students and
educators can register with educational institutions anywhere in the world; access archival material or receive online instruction from central national services.

Telecenters might also serve as community cultural and entertainment centers, using multimedia services and production to bring people together. An essential element is access to content relevant to the local community. To give users a tool to produce their own material, national or regional content platforms could be developed and made available locally. Besides allowing access to information, telecenters also need to facilitate contact with the organisations that provide it. Portals serving many telecenters can help build networks of communities and provide commercially viable solutions for developing and maintaining formal content.


THE NEED
Samoa is geographically and commercially isolated from the rest of the world. To offset this disadvantage, it has come to rely in particular on ICT to redefine a virtual geography, placing Samoa in a more favorable position to interact with the rest of the world, and partake in the momentum created by the global economy.

Indeed, its dispersed populations, small size and isolation from the rest of the world have long hampered the development of Samoa. These circumstances impose large costs on service provision in education, economic development, social welfare, health, travel and communication and have limited the growth of important industries such as fisheries, agriculture and tourism.

The Samoan people need access to telephones, faxes, photocopying machines, e-mail and Internet services to strengthen them personally and professionally, as well as for community development. If they have a sense of ownership of the telecenter, and they or their representatives are involved in the set-up and running of a successful telecenter, their self confidence will be boosted, negativity about effecting change will be banished and many other positive benefits for development in the community will result.

Even in advanced economies, there are rural and remote communities that have been left behind in terms of educational and technological equity and access. The technological revolution that is transforming our economies and societies into information economies and information societies meets with many obstacles in developing countries and is in danger of widening the now well-known “digital divide.”

Conversely, the technological advances provide the means for “leapfrogging”—that is, the opportunity for developing countries to jump to a new paradigm before problems of delivery have been solved by traditional means, both in technical and economical terms.

There is now increasing awareness of the potential for public access facilities in low-income and rural areas to provide a broad range of low-cost communication and information services, ranging from phone calls and email to multimedia distance learning and e-commerce. These centers exploit the convergence of technologies to provide cost-effective services where most people cannot afford their own PC, phone line or Internet connection.

Improvements in telecommunication services and information technology now provide increasing opportunities for Samoa to overcome these circumstances by:

· Reducing barriers of distance
· Improving service delivery within Samoa and among the Pacific Community
· Reducing costs
· Improving the knowledge, skills and general development of its people
· Maximising its economic growth
· Affording the capacity to work more effectively


BRIDGING THE DIGITAL DIVIDE
People living in developing countries are becoming increasingly aware of the powerful role that new information and communication technologies can play to help them in their struggle for education, democracy, and economic and social development. However, with six billion people on the planet and only about 800 million telephone lines, more than half of the world’s population have not yet made a telephone call, let alone accessed the Internet. If this digital divide is not closed, there could be an even greater gap between the rich and poor of the world.

Telecenters have considerable potential for narrowing the “digital divide” in remote, rural and otherwise disadvantaged communities. They can be especially useful in help rural Samoan villages take advantage of the information economy, access education, government information, healthcare and other services, and develop socially and economically. While facilities and usage vary across telecenters, all reflect the intention to address the issues of access by providing technology, develop human capacity and encourage social and economic development.

One of the major barriers to telecommunication service provision in Samoa has been that the costs of installing, maintaining, and using the infrastructure are high, while income levels are usually low, so the investment in providing the necessary facilities to individual users cannot be justified. However, now that the infrastructure can carry a range of ICT services and not just voice calls, providing access has become more feasible, especially if the costs are spread across many people making use of a variety of services through public access centers.


PROJECT BENEFITS

· The Internet and Web — new and enlarged sources of information and knowledge
· E-mail and chat rooms — new forms of communication and “virtual organisations”
· The extraordinary pace of software development — generic and locally produced teaching, training and information material, with enhanced graphics, animation and interaction
· Public access schemes — greater assistance to lower income groups and disadvantaged communities
· Creating new markets for ICT technology - Telecenters allow public agencies and private telecommunications and information technology companies to assess the demand for products and services while creating the market through exposing the public to the applications. They thus provide a means to explore rural locations as potential markets for those companies.
· The lowering of bandwidth costs and emergence of enhanced cable, wireless and satellite systems — increased the speed of sustainability as well creating greater opportunities for videoconferencing, online learning, etc.

One of the advantages of telecenters is that they provide a means of delivering public and private services to rural and remote locations without incurring immediate large investments. In fulfilling these goals, they are expected to have a positive impact on the socio-economic development of the communities they serve, helping to:

· Develop rural and remote infrastructure
· Provide rural regions with better public services and improved local administration
· Generate employment and foster socio-economic development
· Integrate relatively isolated communities into the national and international information network and thus accelerate exchange of private goods and services
· Transfer expertise in a number of areas, such as agriculture, to and from the community
· Give local producers access to market information, thus reducing the need for middlemen and increasing rural incomes.


SUSTAINIBILITY
Long-term economic sustainability is the probably the most critical issue
for the Apolima Community ICT Telecenter Project. Sustainability is an essential goal for long term success. To be sustainable, the telecenter must become commercially viable fairly quickly. Telecenters that cannot finance themselves in the long run become a drain on public resources and are continuously at risk of failure.

There are three main aspects of sustainability that need to be addressed: physical, intellectual and financial.

Physical
A safe, secure and comfortable physical environment is a key to the success of the telecenter. The humidity and salt air of Samoa are detrimental to the health of computer systems and other electronic equipment. Therefore it is necessary to create an climate controlled environment. This will increase the life span of equipment as well as create a comfortable working space. The telecenter must also be safe and secure. A telecenter with good security and well cared for equipment will attract users and ensure a telecenter’s survival.


Intellectual
Training in the use and basic maintenance of computers will be provided by the Ministry of Women, Social Services & Community Development to build capacity and allow the telecenter to run independently. Training will include, but is not limited to, typing, Operating Systems, Microsoft Office, and use of the Internet.

Financial
A financial independence is the goal of the ICT Telecenter Project. To reach this goal, the telecenter will be a multi-use facility encompassing not only phone line and Internet access, but also printing, photocopying and digital imaging services.

Eventually revenues from all services must cover operation and maintenance, additions and replacements of equipment, and, ideally, part of the initial investment. The commercial viability of telecenters depends on connection to data transmission capabilities of reasonable quality, especially Internet access and connectivity to government information networks.

The Apolima Community ICT Project has an advantage over most telecenters in the world in that it is not a start-up. The infrastructure, both physical and human is largely in place and running successfully in many villages across Samoa. This project only seeks to upgrade the telecenter to include more ICT services.

Experience shows that this “phased in” approach to Telecenter expansion offers the best chance of success. The Telecenter starts out with basic services and adds to them as demand grows.


PILOT PROGRAM
The Apolima Community ICT Telecenter Project will be a pilot program, the first of its kind in Samoa. Once successful, the initial ICT telecenter will become a model for other villages around the country. The knowledge and experience of the women managing the center can be transferred from one village to the next.

After six months the ministry will be able to determine:

· The demand for services
· Whether users would be interested in any additional services
· What the favored operating times are
· What kind of marketing and outreach strategies are needed
· The number of local organisations that are likely to bring classes or groups to the Telecenter, and the size of those groups.

Once a knowledge database is created taking into account the above information, the business plan can be streamlined for optimum efficiency.











BUDGET – APOLIMA COMMUNITY ICT TELECENTER 1 USD = 2.9 WST

Item Quantity Unit Extended
Cost
Notes




3 Total Capital Costs 53,359.00 WST





6 Total Recurrent Costs 18,331.88 WST


7 Total Costs (WST) 71,690.88 WST

8 Total Costs (USD) 24,720.99 USD


Garlic Rosemary Sausage Pizza

Garlic Rosemary Sausage Pizza
I had a great food day yesterday.

It started off basic enough with cinammon and brown sugar porridge for breakfast.

For lunch I made seared tandoori yellow fin tuna. Very easy, very tasty, cooks in seconds. It's so nice to be able to get such good fresh fish, so cheaply.

For a snack in the afternoon I made rosemary macaroni & cheese with some blue cheese added. It was incredibly decadent and delicous. I'm definately going to have to have that again. You can pick up Kraft Mac & Cheese in town at MD's Big Fresh for 4 tala 30.

For dinner there was pizza. What else? The combination of rosemary, garlic and sausage (also from MD's) was sublime. The crust was amazing. Soft and sweet, but crispy on the bottom. It was one of the best I've made.

I'm running out of that incredible pizza sauce my brother sent me from Trader Joe's. It's looks like it back to Hunt's soon.

August 12, 2003

The Great Dirt Experiment

The Great Dirt Experiment
MD's Big Fresh is out of kitty litter (they tell me they are getting a shipment at the end of the month), so I'm having to experiment with dirt in the litter box. There are noteworthy advantages and disadvantages.

The best advantage, of course, is while litter at MD's costs 29 tala a box and I go through a box a month, dirt is free and readily available in Samoa. Litter is also heavy and a pain in the ass to drag up to my house. Dirt is right out front. That's about it for the advantages, actually.

The disadvantages are strong. There's no doubt about it. The dirt fucking stinks. My little shack now smells like a New York City alley. With the litter, you couldn't smell a thing. The cats don't seem to mind, though they go outside more these days in the real dirt anyway. The dirt also doesn't clump so it's harder to clean the box and the cats little white paws get so damn dirty. On top of that, they track it all over the house.

All in all, I'd have to give dirt a big thumbs down.

Reason #34 Why Cats Are Better Than Dogs

Don't Cry Over Spilt (Strawberry) Milk
When your blender explodes, spraying your strawberry milk concoction all over the living room floor, the cats not only will lap it all up, but they will do it with enthusiasm and ask for more.

Look at the little guys go! You have to admire their desire to keep my place neat and tidy.

Cleopatra's Sister

Cleopatra's Sister
I really enjoyed this book, although I was laughing at it initially. The book is divided into two parts. The first has three types of chapters that alternate: those that follow Howard's life, those that follow Lucy's life, and intercolary chapters about the history of Callimbia. In the second part, Howard (a palaeontologist) and Lucy (a travel writer) meet (and fall in love) when they are taken hostage on their way to Nairobi.

If you haven't heard of Callimbia, don't worry. Penelope Lively made it up. It's a small country tucked in between Egypt and Lybia. I was laughing at this book because in order to give Callimbia veracity, Lively calls upon historians and writers famous for being in Egypt to give accounts of the history of the Callimbia. When I first came across an except from Herodotus about the geography and people of Callimbia, I laughed out loud. It was not a pleasurable, oh this is funny, sort of laughter. It was a derisive, oh this is absurd, sort.

Then I got over it, because the characters are interesting and the subsequent excperts from Plutarch and Flaubert didn't bother me much. In fact, the one from Flaubert is great because it pokes fun at his penchant for whoring.

This is the second book I've read in short order about love during a hostage situation in a fictional or vague developing country (Bel Canto is the other). I think I enjoy this genre. I wonder if there are any other novels out there with this theme.

Here's a quote from the book about travel that I really enjoyed:

We do indeed live in global times, she thought. That is the problem. The globe has lost its mystery and its terrors. It no longer has oceans, deserts and forests, it is reduced to time zones, flight numbers and the logo of an airline. We are all travelers now. In the airport departure lounges she contemplated the boredom and the composure of those who circumnavigate the world today, in tracksuits and anoraks, slung about with electronic goods and cheap liquor, surprised by nothing, lords of the universe. It has come to this. Once upon a time a stranger was to be wondered at, questioned, attacked maybe, but never, for heaven's sake, accepted with indifference and a yawn. In the linguistic babel of arrivals and departures the itinerant hordes are barely aware of one another, moving between destinations as impervious as the baggage trundling around the carousel. Only language survives, and the cast of an eye, the color skin.

August 11, 2003

OOOOOOOH ............... BARRACUDA!!!!!

Barracuda
This morning I bought a barracuda from the fish market. I've never cooked (or eaten) barracuda before so I have no idea what I'm going to with it. It was just too cool and too cheap (10 tala, about $3.25) to pass up.

I had it cut into steaks. I'll probably fry it up with some onions maybe in Satay or Tandoori sauce. If it tastes like crap, I can always feed it to the kittens.

I also picked up four pounds of Yellow Fin tuna fillets. Yellow Fin is the tuna used in sushi bars around the world to make sashimi. It's one of the best fish on the planet. This huge chunk that I bought today would probably cost about 500 bucks in any run of the mill sushi bar. It cost me less than 6 It's only 5 tala a pound).

Ah, the benefits of living in the developing world. Adios, it's sashimi time.

How Much Does a Fat Kid Love Cake?

There's a song on that getting tons of air time on Magik 98.1 FM in Samoa. It's by a rapper called 50 cent and I think the song is called "21 Questions".

Anyway there's a lyric in the song that goes something like this:

You know I love you like a fat kid love (sic) cake

Once you get over the basic problem of subject-verb agreement, you have this incredibly odd simile. Certainly, there is no finer love than that between an obese adolescent and his baked goods, but come on, this can't be serious. Are you with me on this ladies?

Call me old fashioned, but can you imagine Sinatra crooning about portly children and cake?

How much do I love you?
I’ll tell you no lie
How deep is the ocean?
How high is the sky?

How many times a day do I think of you?
How many roses are sprinkled with dew?

How far would I travel
To be where you are?
How far is the journey
from here to a star?

How much do I love you?
How much does a fat kid love cake?

Hmmm, maybe it does have a certain ring to it.

The Dullest Blog in the World

Stop by the The Dullest Blog in the World if you want laugh out loud. It could be that my threshold for humor has slipped during my ten months on Samoa, but this is damn funny...

August 10, 2003

Spectacular Mars

Never again in your lifetime will Mars be so spectacular!

In August, the Earth and Mars will culminate in the closest approach between the two planets in recorded history. The next time Mars may come this close is in 2287.

Due to the way Jupiter's gravity tugs on Mars and perturbs its orbit, astronomers can only be certain that Mars has not come this close to Earth in the last 5,000 years but it may be as long as 60,000 years.

The encounter will culminate on August 27th when Mars comes to within 34,649,589 miles and will be (next to the moon) the brightest object in the night sky. It will attain a magnitude of-2.9 and will appear 25.11 Arc seconds wide. At a modest 75-power magnification Mars will look as large as the full moon to the naked eye.

Mars will be easy to spot. At the beginning of August, Mars will rise in the East at 10 p.m. and reach its azimuth at about 3 a.m. But by the end of August when the two planets are closest, Mars will rise at nightfall and reach its highest point in the sky at 12:30 a.m. That's pretty convenient when it comes to seeing something that no human has seen in recorded history.

So mark your calendar at the beginning of August to see Mars grow progressively brighter and brighter throughout the month. Share with your children and grandchildren. No one alive today will ever see this again.

Red Planet will be as near to Earth's orbit as it has been in at least 5,000 years

by Martin Merzer
10 August 2003

On Aug. 27, Mars will be 'only' 34,646,418 miles away.

Talk about once-in-a-lifetime visits: During the next few weeks, our planetary neighbor -- Mars -- glides ever closer, ultimately making its nearest approach to Earth in all of recorded history.

"The last time people looked up and saw this, Neanderthal man saw it," said Jack Horkheimer, executive director of the planetarium at the Miami Museum of Science and Planetarium. "This is going to be so stunning."

The reason: By Aug. 27, Mars will be "only" 34,646,418 miles away, pretty much the galactic equivalent of idling in our driveway. With a little bit of luck, the view will be spectacular.

And you don't have to wait until the end of the month. Mars already is much closer and appears much brighter and larger in the southeast sky than it did at the beginning of July, when it was 52 million miles away.

Observers have been giving the light show glowing reviews. Astronomers say you have never seen anything like this. Neither have your parents. Or their parents. Or . . . well, you get the idea.

All experts agree that Mars hasn't been this close in at least 5,000 years. Most astronomical calculations raise those estimates to 59,619 years.

"I've already been watching, and over the next several weeks it will be getting bigger and brighter," said astronomer David Menke of Plantation, former director of the Buehler Planetarium on the Broward Community College campus in Davie. "It will just be fabulous."

GRAVITATIONAL DUET

Every day brings Mars closer, the result of a gravitational duet around the sun that produces neighborly visits every 26 months but rarely such close encounters.

The condition that will occur on Aug. 27 is called "opposition" -- when the sun, Earth and Mars form a straight line, bringing Mars and Earth relatively close.

But the elliptical orbits of planets make some oppositions closer than others.

This one is so close that sky watchers using nothing but their eyes might be able to tell if Mars is awash in dust storms. It turns out that the Red Planet is not always so red, especially when viewed from Earth.

"If it appears to be mostly gold with no hint of ruby whatsoever, you're probably seeing a dust storm on the planet," Horkheimer said.

"If you see a hint of red with the naked eye, you're seeing the surface," he said.

And if you use even an inexpensive, 100-power telescope, you might be able to discern Mars' southern ice cap -- though Earth's shimmering atmosphere often frustrates viewers.

Long a source of fascination for Earthlings, Mars continues to intrigue scientists, who have recently determined that the ice cap is made from water rather than frozen carbon dioxide.

That, of course, raises profound new questions: How much water once existed on Mars? How much still exists underground? What does this imply about the prospect of life on Mars?

SCIENTIFIC PROBES

A new squadron of scientific probes -- including two ground rovers -- is en route to the planet, and experts hope the devices will help unravel some of these mysteries. In addition, visionaries still muse about human colonization of Earth's closest planetary neighbor.

"Mars has always captured our imaginations," said Menke, who teaches at Coral Springs High School. "Its blood-red color made it representative of the god of war and there's always been a lot of folk lore associated with Mars."

So, you'll probably want to catch this opportunity rather than wait for the next "perfect opposition" of Earth and Mars.

That one comes along on Aug. 28 . . . 2287.


August 09, 2003

I Might Already Have Won 1 Million Dollars

I got another one of those Nigerian scam emails this week. This one is fascinating. Apparently one of my relatives living in Nigeria, a man by the name of Allan Hecht was killed in car crash (I didn't know I had family in Africa!!!).

Mr. Hecht left a sizeable fortune, over 10 million bucks and his scrupulous lawyer, incongruously named Mr. Abba Naaabba, esq., has scoured the world to contact me about my share of the inheritance.

From: "abba naabba"
To:
Subject: HELLO
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 19:32:28 +0100


Dear Hecht,

I am Barrister Abba Naabba, a solicitor at law. I am the personal attorney to Mr Allan Hecht,a national of United States,who used to work with Shell Development Company in Nigeria. Hereinafter shall be referred to as my client.

On the 21st of Oct 1999, my client, his wife and their two Children were involved in acar accident along sagamu express road. All occupants of the vehicle unfortunately lost there lives. Since then I have made several enquiries to the embassy to locate any of my clients extended relatives this has also proved unsuccessful. After these several unsuccessful attempts, I decided tolook for somebody reliable to receive this fund hence I contacted you.

I have contacted you to assist in claiming the money and propertyleft behind by my client before the bank confiscates or declare the fund unserviceable. Until his death,he has,and maintained a US Dollar currency deposit account with a closing balance of USD 11,403,994.50 with a Security Company, The Nigeria Deposit Insurance Company have written to recover all such dormant and unclaimed accounts to reinvest it with other Fund through the capital market, but we have cleverly informed them that a member of his family as next of kin has shown interest to claim the deposited amount.

It is for the urgency of this claim that I write toyou to stand and receive the money as Mr. Allan's next of kin since I have been an unsuccessful attempt in locating the relatives for over 2 years now.I seek your consent to present youas the next of kin of the deceased since I can perfectly procure allthe vital documents that would aid the transfer into any account of my choice abroad.

I am prepared to disburse the money among ourselves in following ratio:

Beneficiary/next of kin 30% plus 10% for Bank and legalexpenses while my colleagues and I in the chamber shall have 60%.

If this proposal is acceptableby you and you do not want to take undue advantage of the trust we intend to bestow on you and your company, then kindly respond immediately through my private e-mail: ,furnishing me with your confidential telephone and fax, e-mail address, and I have all necessary legal documents that can be used to back up any claim we may make.

As soon as I receive the aforesaid I shall furnish youwith the text of theapplication that would be sent to the finance company for fund clearance.

All I require is your honesty and cooperation to enable us see this deal through. I guarantee that this will be executed under a legitimate arrangement that will protect you from any breach of the law.

Best Regards,

ABBA NAABBA (ESQ

I wrote back immediately:



Dude, I am so, like, all over that. It sounds like the
answer to all my problems. Whao!. Let me know what I
have to do to recover that fundage.


peace out,


Hecht



I can't believe that I received a response to this letter (it came this morning). I wonder how far I should push it. I think I'm going to tell him that I live in Samoa, but don't have a phone or a fax machine and see if I can get him to come here.

I also suppose I should be indignant about Mr. Naaba's 60% fees, but then again, this is all a big joke.


From: "abba naabba"
To:
Subject: thank's /detailed information!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 16:53:47 +0100 Dear Andrew Hecht,

This is to acknowledge the receipt of your mail and to also express my profound gratitude for your acceptance to work with me and I want to assure you that at the end of this transaction, you will forever be happy that you are involved as it will bring about a mutual financial long lasting relationship between us and our
families and business to the fourth generation.

As the Next Of Kin of my late client Allan Hecht, you are absolutely entitled to know the details of the transaction so as to avoid mistakes. And it is quite simple and easy. The late Allan Hecht, my client, died in an auto accident in company of his wife and children in one of his official assignments. In view of the fact that I am his personal attorney and in charge of his estates, I am in the know of all his belongings and so I have been searching for anyone that will come up to claim relationship with him so that I can present him to the FINANCE COMPANY, where he has the sum of US$11,403,994.50 left in his account.

Now the bank contacted me forthnight(2 weeks) ago to provide the Next Of Kin of my late client within twenty-one days otherwise the money would be confiscated through the Nigerian Deposit Insurance Corporation in line with the Federal Government Financial Edict. It is however on this premise that I write to inform you so that you and I can work together and have this money transfered into your account for our private use instead of the government returning the fund into their treasury as unclaimed fund.

It would interest you to note that this transaction is a 100% risk free, besides I am a human right activist also a lawyer by proffession based in Nigeria. Be assured that the transaction does not have any legal implication on both parties. If it were to be I would not have involved myself given my profession. So all it entails you to do is to act as the next of kin to Mr.Allan Hecht This will take pla ce because I will write an application to the bank presenting you as Mr. Allan's next of kin.

If you are ready and interested to work with me sincerely and honestly, advise you to send me your telephone and fax numbers. As soon as I receive it, i shall send an application to the bank on your behalf as the next Of Kin to my late client with some vital documents of my late client. I as the attorney to Mr.Allan Hecht will invariably and inevitably become your attorney and will take care of any legality that comes out should there be any.

My dear, it is my expectation and believe that with this you will be absolutely satisfied and assured that you are on safe ground. Should you not be convinced, feel free to ask me any question that bothers you, but as for me, I am quite sure that we are going to work out together to your satisfaction.

I advise you to call me through my number 234 -1- (24 hrs). Also, do please give me your telephone and fax number for I know it is the best means of the bank getting across to you. Thank you for your anticipated cooperation and assistance while unequivocally assuring you of my genuineness. I await your immediate response and hoping for a good success.

Best regards,

Abba Naabba.



Did he even read my response?


International Cooperation

I recently helped another PCV (Jim in Pokhara , Nepal) put a COS (Close of Service) countdown on his site. I don't know why, but its fun to help out other volunteers with their sites. Just being in contact with volunteers around the world is pretty damn cool.

You can find Jim's site here:

Jim Lengel's Peace Corps web page

Mushroom Pizza

Mushroom Pizza
You can usually get fresh mushrooms imported from New Zealand at MD's Big Fresh. They are a little pricey, about 10 tala a pound, but the alternative is buying cans of what are ambitiously labeled "champignons" or doing without.

Occasionally I splurge and pick up half a pound or so. I bought some the other day and made a mushroom pizza last night.

Sadly, this one looks much better than it tasted. It wasn't the mushrooms, they were great. It was the crust.

I decided to experiment and try to make a thin crust pizza. My pizzas tend to be on the fluffy side, which is fine, but I like a little variety. I've been slowly reducing the amount of yeast that I use which has had little effect on the "fluffiness" of the crust so I tried making dough without yeast. What a huge mistake.

It all looked fine when it came out of the oven: golden brown crust, bubbling cheese and great looking shrooms. But the yeast-less no rise crust didn't cook all the way through and it was dense as brick, so tough, in fact that I had a tough time cutting through it with my serrated knife. The crust was thin and damn crispy, though. I'm going to have work on that recipe.

Champ of Champs

Finding Nemo:Crush
Champ of Champs is one of the biggest sporting events of the year in Samoa. It brings together all the winning athletes from the secondary school district competitions all over the country.

I wanted to go and take pictures. The colorful outfits and all the excitement of the students in the would have been great to shoot. The venue, Apia Park, is also just down the way from the Peace Corps office. However it was raining so hard that it was going to be unpleasant for spectators and horrible for shooting.

I went to have lunch at the Steakhouse with a few other volunteers and found that the Champ of Champs was on television. So while we waited for our burgers, we watched this guy from Avele College blow the field away in the 800 meters.

On my way home on the bus, we passed Apia Park with soaked students streaming out of the stadium. Maybe next year it will be sunny.

August 08, 2003

Wonder What Other PCVs Are Doing?

If you're wondering what other volunteers are doing around the world, check out the Peace Corp Blog Web Ring.

I set it up to gather as many web logs by currently serving volunteers in one place. So far there are only 8 other sites listed, but we're just getting started and the ring is growing steadily.

There are member sites at the moment from Mali, Mozambique, Nepal, Krygyzstan, St. Lucia, and Bulgaria.

It's ineresting to think how different my life would be right now if I had taken a different assignment...

Finding Nemo

Finding Nemo:Crush
It must be a director's dream to not only be able to completely direct every aspect of the shot, but also to have a team of the finest digital animators in the world to make it a reality. The animators at Pixar are just absolute geniuses. There's no question about it. Their unbelievable attention to even the smallest detail is amazing. I have so much respect for their work. The animation is simply brilliant.

I saw Finding Nemo last night at the Magik Cinema downtown and was floored by how good it was. There are so many aspects of the film that would be interesting to talk about, but what I liked the most is how well they nailed the accents for the fish.

It's one thing to have a grizzled Angel Fish and get Wilem Dafoe to voice it. It's entirely another thing to have lobsters with Boston accents, a Great White Shark from Australia, and dueling Swordfish speaking with upper crust English accents.

My favorite of them all was Crush, the turtle. It might be that I just swam with turtles over the weekend and have tortugas on the brain. Or it might be the California surfer accent is just so perfectly suited for the laid back easy going tortoises, that I just fell for it.

Whatever the case, I my admiration for Pixar continues to grow which each successive opus.

The Death of Richard Kalin

You're probably wondering who Richard Kalin is. I, myself, wasn't even aware of his existence until a week ago. However his passing has hit me like a ton of bricks.

Richard Kalin was formerly the CEO of a small company called Micronetics that my father used to run back in the 80s. I have a few shares of stock in the company which I hadn't thought of in a long time until lately when shares of NOIZ (the company makes radar jamming equipment, amongst other things) started climbing precipitously.

I was reading one of their press releases and decided to write them to find out what they thought about the prospects for the company and the stock. It was only after I sent the email that I realized that the address on the release was for the Richard Kalin, the CEO of the company.

I didn't expect a response but I got one within the hour. I was shocked, but pleasantly. It's to own shares in a company that is so responsive. Here's the email:


Andrew,

I remember your father.

I am optimistic about future growth, but no one can no for sure. I expect the current rate of growth and increased profitability to continue. I think we are developing some momentum.

RSK


This morning, when I checked my email, there was a note from my dad saying that Richard had been killed in car accident.

I didn't know this man. He had very little effect on my life. However, since I just corresponded with him last week, it seems crazy, even unreal, that he is gone.

It just shows you how quickly everything you have in world can all just vanish in an instant. It's enough to turn anyone into an existentialist.

Micronetics says CEO Kalin killed in car accident
Friday August 8, 12:31 pm ET


NEW YORK, Aug 8 (Reuters) - Micronetics Inc. (NasdaqSC:NOIZ - News), a maker of microwave and radio frequency components and subassemblies used in defense and aerospace, on Friday said Richard Kalin, its president and chief executive, was killed in a car accident on Thursday.

The Hudson, New Hampshire-based company, which also makes and designs equipment that tests signals used in communications equipment, said its board of directors appointed David Robbins interim CEO and a director. Robbins was recently senior vice president of Micronetics' defense electronics group.

Trading was halted in Micronetics shares prior to the company's announcement. The shares last traded on the Nasdaq at $5.14, down 77 cents, or 13 percent.


August 07, 2003

Balzac and the Little Seamstress

Balzac
This book, , is a little treasure. It was such a surprise find. One of friends had it on her shelf and I read it one morning. It's less than 200 pages, so it's a quick read.

Packed in those few pages is a great story of defiance in the face of Mao's Cultural Revolution. The tale centers around two friends from the city who are shipped off to one of the most remote parts of China to work in the fields. Their struggle for survival is helped along with the find of a cache of outlawed western novels including some, of course, from Balzac.

This is one of my favorite passages from the novel:

Watching them during fittings, Luo and I were amazed to see how agitated they were, how impatient, how physical their desire for new clothes was. It would evidently take more than a political regime, more than dire poverty to stop a woman from wanting to be well dressed: it was a desire as old as the world, as old as the desire for children.

The book really turns the Cultural Revolution on its ear. These youths who are sent to the countryside are not only not "re-educated", but instead infect the villagers with their "western" ways through their storytelling.

At first the village headman sends the boys into the closest town to watch North Korean movies and retell the stories to the peasants. When they find a suitcase full of books, they start reinacting the stories from this library of classics. This all has dramatic effects for everyone they come in contact with, especially the Little Seamstress.

Fiddling, Fumbling and Failing

I love that "The Terminator" could possibly be the next governor of the great state of California. Arnold hasn't make a decent movie in a long time and he needs a new gig, so this makes perfect sense. We also have a long history of bad making actors making their way into the Governor's Mansion. He can't possibly do a worse job than the current holder of the office.

To get the feeling of the effect of Schwarzenegger in office, look into the mirror and say the following in your thickest Tyrolean accent:

"I wrote the legislation. I directed the legislation. I am the legislation".

Schwarzenegger Ends the Suspense
Actor Announces Gubernatorial Bid After Weeks of Speculation
By Brooke Brower

LOS ANGELES, Aug. 7 — Arnold Schwarzenegger knows how to grab an audience.

The former Mr. Universe and perpetual action hero kept Californians, Gov. Gray Davis, the Republican Party and national political reporters in suspense all day Wednesday before finally revealing on the Tonight Show with Jay Leno that he will run for governor in the California recall election.

The actor told Leno, "The politicians are fiddling, fumbling and failing."

"The man that is failing the people more than anyone is Gray Davis," Schwarzenegger added.

Surprise Announcement
Schwarzenegger told many people last week he didn't plan to run. He reportedly held many meetings over the last few weeks with his friend and neighbor, former Los Angeles Mayor Richard Riordan, to discuss whether one of them would enter the race.

Some even speculated Wednesday that Schwarzenegger would use the Tonight Show appearance to announce Riordan's candidacy. But Schwarzenegger kept them all guessing until the last minute.

"He fooled everyone," ABCNEWS' George Stephanopoulos said on Good Morning America.

The actor finished a promotional tour for his new movie Terminator 3: Rise of the Machines last week. "As I always have said, when I'm finished with my Terminator promotion, I would deal with this issue of whether I would run or not," he said at a news conference after the Tonight Show taping.

Schwarzenegger also met recently with GOP leaders including former Gov. Pete Wilson. Schwarzenegger had been telling people he did not plan to run, at least in some part because of the wishes of his wife, journalist Maria Shriver.

According to sources, Shriver softened her opposition to a campaign when she realized how important it was for her husband to make the run.

"My wife told me that she would support me no matter what the decision is, and I decided that I would run for governor of this great state," the former body builder told reporters at a press conference.

"If she had been against my campaigning and my going for governor, I would not have done it," he said.

‘Carnival-Like Atmosphere’

With California's senior senator, Dianne Feinstein, saying Wednesday she will not run, Democrats seem to have already lost their marquee candidate. In a statement Wednesday morning, Feinstein said the recall race was becoming "more and more like a carnival every day" and that she thought staying in the Senate was the best thing she could do for her state. She later said Schwarzenegger's announcement would not make her change her mind.

Late Wednesday, Lt. Gov. Cruz Bustamante, the Democrat who currently serves under Davis, announced that he will join the race for the governor's job, striking a blow to Democrats' hopes that Davis would not face any serious opposition from within his own party.

Schwarzenegger's entrance will certainly do little to lessen the carnival-like atmosphere of the recall.

"I will go to Sacramento and I will clean house," the actor told reporters Wednesday.

Schwarzenegger is seen as a relative moderate compared with some of the other Republicans mulling a run, including 2002 GOP gubernatorial nominee Bill Simon and Rep. Darrell Issa, who largely financed the initial recall signature-gathering with his own money.

Issa is expected to announce his candidacy and file papers in San Diego today. Republican State Sen. Tom McClintock filed papers to run on Tuesday.

Schwarzenegger cited the state's $38 billion deficit and an education system that he described as "the last in the country" as some of the reasons motivating him to run.

"We just see things declining, declining and declining," he said. "California is being run now by special interests … and we have to stop that."

The entrance of both the relatively moderate Schwarzenegger and Gov. Davis' own second-in-command will make it much harder for Davis and fellow Democrats to argue that recall effort is simply a coup of right-wing interests.

In July, a Los Angeles Times poll of registered California voters showed Schwarzenegger in fourth place behind Feinstein, undecided and Riordan. With those two candidates eliminated, and with Riordan's supporters behind him, his numbers could rise quickly.



"Arnold Schwarzenegger. Finally a candidate who can explain the Bush administration's positions on civil liberties in the original German."
~ Bill Maher

August 06, 2003

Surprise Phone Call

Last night, I got a great surprise when my phone rang and on the other end was my mom.

I hadn't talked to her in about 10 months and it was so strange to hear her voice. I almost didn't recognize it at first, that's how long it's been. It was also the first call I've recceived from overseas. I'm very happy it was her.

She bought some kind of phone card that lets her call Samoa from the States for 29.5 cents a minute. That's reasonable, I suppose, but I bet there's some better deals out there. If anyone know of any, please lt me know.

I love my mom. It was really nice to catch up with her and hear her voice.

August 05, 2003

Jane's Tabby

Jane's Tabby
Wherever I go, cats inevitably follow, which I suppose is nice considering how much I like their company.

My surprise guest this weekend at Jane's Beach Fales was a wizened female tabby who took a liking to me and starting hanging around the balcony and sleeping on the mat inside the room.

This cat was a funny one. She would follow me down to beach (only a few feet away from my doorstep, but still adorable). When I put her outside she would climb back in through one the windows (you couldn't close them). She was insistent that sleep inside the room (I had to admire that). She was so old that when she opened her mouth to meow nothing would come out. It was very cute.

August 04, 2003

Swimming With Turtles

Turtles
GALLERY: Seta'olepai Turtles

This afternoon I swam with turtles. It was amazing.

There is a small, unfunded, family-run conservation project in the village of Seta'olepai on the north coast of Savai'i. The family buys turtles, mostly green turtles and hawksbills, off fishermen (who would otherwise eat them) and keep them in a large fresh water pool. They have even built a sandy beach in the the enclosure to compel the turtles to them to lay eggs.

The setting is so serene. Nothing but palm trees, traditional wooden fales for resting and few well designed fresh ponds that have the feel of water gardens. The place is few hundred meters off the main road so there's there's no one around, no cars whooshing by and it's blessedly quiet.

There are something like 15 turtles at the moment. They are so incongruously graceful as they float around their pool. I wish I had an underwater camera. The view under the water was surreal. The dust from the bottom hung like a mist from the turtles would emerge like some kind of beneficient prehistoric beast. I was entranced.

I swam with them for about half an hour in the cool waters of the enclosure. Then I sat by the edge of the pool, taking photos as they would glide by or breach to breathe and check me out. This is one of the best things I've seen in Samoa.

August 03, 2003

I want my Monterey Roast Beef Sandwich

I want my Monterey Roast Beef Sandwich
There's nothing really exceptional about this picture. It's your standard portrait of a mom and her son working at the family fale'oloa.

What I love about this shot is her t-shirt. Here's this woman wearing an "I want my Monterey Roast Beef Sandwich" from Jack in the Box in one of the most remote parts of Samoa on the island of Savai'i.

The thing is, this is hardly remarkable. I find Samoans wearing t-shirts like this all over the country. For a long time I wanted to start taking pictures of these people and their incongruous ofus.

I always wonder where these shirts come from and how they get to Samoa. My training host family had a bunch of them (which they made me wear). My favorite was the sleeveless Washington State University sweatshirt.

August 01, 2003

Going Away for the Weekend

Tomorrow I'm taking off for the big island of Savai'i where I'm going to plant my ass firmly in the sand and do nothing for the entire weekend but eat, sleep, swim and lie in the sun (that is if the weather cooperates, which today, it is not doing). There's no computers, so no blogging until I'll get.

It's going to be my first real vacation where I've had nothing to do since I arrived in Samoa. The country is also being very cooperative - Monday is a holiday, so I don't have to be back to Apia for 4 days.

Monday (the 4th of August) is also my birthday (my brother's birthday too, incidentally - happy b-day, Brian). I'm turning 33. I don't feel 33. Not even close. It feels very odd to say that and even odder to write it and see the number staring at me in the face.

A number of people have expressed concern to me about the ability (or lack thereof) of the USPS to get packages to Samoa in a timely manner. This is a huge problem for us. But don't fear. If you want to give me a gift, and let's face it, you're chomping at the bit to do it, there are many ways you can achieve your goal:

1) Make a donation in my name to the Human Fund.
2) Go to a bar, have a few drinks and thank god you're not in the Peace Corps stuck on rock in the middle of the Pacific.
3) Send a few bucks to my account at and help me buy a new digital camera.

Fa'afetai lava to all of you who have already chosen option number 3.

A Little Goes a Long Way

I wasn't planning on it, but I went shopping today for new shirts. There's a store in town called CCK (stands for coffee, cocoa & kava, none of which you can buy at the store-go figure).

CCK is a two floor shop, new clothes on the bottom and used stuff upstairs. I head straight upstairs where there are a dozen racks of previously loved and incredibly cheap stuff.

I picked out four blue XL short sleeve button down shirts, which is mostly all I wear here. The best thing is that CCK takes credit cards. So I'm going to have a tiny charge on my bill and 4 new shirts in my closet.

A little goes a long way at C C K

Little Lost Friend

Yesterday I looked in my box to get my mail (we get mail on Tuesday and Thursday) and there was something horrible inside: a letter stamped, "Return to Sender - Moved Not Forwardable". It was addressed to Anita Torres.

Anita is a old friend of mine. She was a fellow student in the Classics department at UC - Santa Cruz. She graduated and went off to the University of Chicago to get her PHD. I went to Atlanta. That was in 1996. We lost track of each for years.

Then, out of the blue, I get an email from her in January. You know those emails. "Hey, just checking to see if this is you". blah, blah, blah. I wrote back several times, but never got a response.

Then in April a package arrived, postmarked Brooklyn, NY from Anita. It was a Christmas present, books, and Andy Warhol calendar, a cute card with a googly eyed Santa.

I wanted to email her to thank her for the gift, but this was during my fiasco with Yahoo. I might have been able to send her an email from another account, but I needed to get access my account to get her address. Fuck.

When I finally got back into my account in May, I emailed Anita straight away and got one of those "mailer-daemon" responses. Apparently, the account had been closed.

I remembered the box with the return address in Brooklyn. I printed out a few emails, wrote a long letter and stuff it in the mail with 3 tala 90 worth of stamps. That was the 17th of June. After what I can only think must have a pleasant stay in the States, the epistle returned yesterday.

What to do? What to do?

Last night I scoured the Internet for her name and any mention of the University of Chicago. I found a page for some Classics conference with her name and email (also, doesn't work) and the emails of several of her colleagues. I wrote them all explaining what was going on. I got an email back from one of them, Laura Slatkin, who, incidentally, also went to UC-Santa Cruz, although we didn't know each other (I don't think). She gave me Anita's email address, which turns out to the be the one that Anita used to email in the first place that no longer works. Damn.

So I'm at an impasse. I suppose she can easily find me since my email hasn't changed in years. However I think she might be angry at for not thanking her for the Christmas gift. She has no way of knowing it would take 4 months to get here and I had no way to thank her. It's just a theory anyway.

I don't know what to do or where to look. I'd really like to find her. Any suggestions?

Riding sans Helmet

Stacy, the Samoa CD, is out of the country, so I've been riding out town without a hemet with impunity, more or less. It's so great not to have that unwieldy brain bucket on my head which makes me feel even more than a freak than I already feel.